My SenegalAdventure
16 days through West Africa - From Dakar to Cap Skirring
Introduction
![[PLACEHOLDER] First impressions of Senegal](/_next/image?url=%2Fweb%2Fsenegal%2Fsine-saloum%2Fkinder.avif&w=1080&q=75)
Duration
16 days
Type of Trip
Solo Backpacking
Highlight
Saloum Delta
The Capital Dakar
Many cars on the streets that probably haven't passed inspection in 20 years.
Arrival at the airport - Welcome to Senegal!
Like me, you'll most likely start in Dakar. Getting from the airport to the city is a bit of a pain (unless you're willing to pay 50€ for a taxi).
Collectivos
Shared taxis will take you to the city very cheaply.
To get around the city, you can take taxis. Just negotiate a bit beforehand until you're happy with the price.
The capital still looks relatively "European," but that changes quickly once you leave the city. I had accommodation right on the water, a bit outside the center. In the city, you can get a SIM card with internet quite cheaply.
Île de Gorée
The crossing takes about 20 minutes and costs 5,000 CFA (about €7.50). The island is very small and can be easily explored on foot. There are many colorful houses, small cafés, and museums that tell the moving history of the island. Particularly impressive is the Maison des Esclaves, the former slave house, which now serves as a memorial.
Don't get ripped off!
I was accompanied by a tour guide who later wanted to charge me $50, which was not agreed upon. After tipping him $15 (he did tell some good stories), I never saw him again.
The island has a sad and gripping past.
Next Stop M'bour
The harbor was bustling with activity
Fishermen sometimes go out for weeks in these boats
Whew, the trips between cities were always an adventure and not always easy without language skills. Usually, there are shared taxis between cities that take you for little money but only leave when they're full. Luckily, I had a SIM card with internet and could use a translator that helped me somewhat. (Today, I'd use ChatGPT as a translator.)
In M'bour, I rented a scooter for 2 days and explored the area. Along the way, I met a local with a motorcycle who showed me the fishing port.
Here's a fun story:
Right at dusk, my scooter suddenly broke down. And my companion flagged down a completely random passing motorcyclist. He then spent an hour in the middle of the street taking apart my entire scooter with hardly any tools, looking for the cause while I just stood there. It turned out the carburetor was dirty, and he cleaned it (with just a screwdriver and his mouth). After that, the scooter worked again. I thanked him with 10 euros. But it's crazy that a complete stranger would spend an hour working on your scooter. I kept thinking, if he got bored and left, I wouldn't even have been able to put the scooter back together.
The fishing port was the first "boom experience" where I thought, "wow, now you're in Africa."
Onward Journey
Fun Story:
I thanked him with lunch. (I forgot to withdraw cash, which I only realized when we arrived at the river. And the next ATM was an hour away, exactly in the direction we had just come from.) So we drove another hour back to the next ATM. Since it was getting dark, I took a room there and somehow made it back to the dock the next day.
The Saloum Delta
Dreamlike sunsets
The Saloum Delta is a nature reserve and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was my absolute favorite place in Senegal.
The Saloum Delta - My absolute favorite place
I stayed in the village of Mar Lodj, in this accommodation. (Wow, since then the price has increased a lot, looking at the prices now... I never paid more than 20-25€ per night.) The accommodations here are rather simple, but that's what makes it special. What fascinated me about the island is that people here still live very simply and the nature is still very pristine, and there are no cars on the island, only horse and donkey taxis. In addition, churches and mosques stand right next to each other and people live together peacefully. I spent a total of 3 days here. I took a boat tour through the delta, hiked across the island, and visited different villages. All in all, a really very quiet and idyllic place.
Highlight
The tranquility, peace, and untouched nature of the Saloum Delta were absolutely unique. Here you can turn off your phone and just relax and let yourself drift mentally and physically.
Entry into Gambia
Funny story
As soon as you cross the border, everyone suddenly speaks English. And the shared taxi from the border to the next town cost 50 Dalasi. Because of the dialect, I understood 50 dollars, and was already disappointed that you get ripped off at the border. But no matter who I asked, everyone confirmed that it's 50 "dollars." Luckily, I eventually realized that it's 50 Dalasi, which is currently not even 70 cents. The taxi driver was very happy when I gave him 100 Dalasi and explained to me where to go for the ferry, where to buy tickets, and even organized a taxi for me (even before the ferry) that took me to the capital.
Banjul
Gambia
Banjul has beautiful, kilometer-long beaches
Arrival in Banjul - The capital of Gambia
I stayed here for 3 days. There's not much to report here, except that 3 days is of course far too little. I had a hotel right on the beach. That was quite pleasant. The only downside was that the water pressure was too low, so there was hardly any water coming out of the shower. So I just soaped up in the hotel room and then waded into the sea to rinse off. I rented a scooter and explored the city and surroundings.
Encounter
I met a girl who showed me a bit of the city. She also showed me how her family lives, which was a really great insight into the life of the locals.
Border Crossing Gambia
At border crossings
When crossing borders, make sure you always get all the stamps. Sometimes it can happen that an officer forgets to give you an exit or entry stamp. This can cause problems later if you want to leave the country again or at the next checkpoint. So always check directly after crossing the border whether you have the correct stamp in your passport and ask directly if in doubt.
Cap Skirring
Green landscapes
Thanks to the quad, I was able to discover even the most remote villages
Farewell to Senegal - Relaxation in Cap Skirring
In Cap Skirring, I simply recovered from the whole trip. I met some locals there and spent time with them. Communicating with hands and feet all the time was quite exhausting. If you speak French, it makes things much easier. It's a nice little place with beautiful beaches. I spent the rest of my time here.
Farewell tip
Get yourself a scooter, car, or moped and explore the area. There are many small villages and beaches off the beaten tourist path.
I rented a Raptor quad, haggled it down from $50 to $25. Unfortunately, the tire was so worn out that it was basically a racing slick. Before I returned the quad, I had to have it patched at the roadside (there were about 5 different holes in it). There are shops for tire repairs on every corner in Senegal. The hole is enlarged and then a piece of tube is inserted. Voila, you can keep riding for more kilometers.
Encounters
I also met a few locals here. A musician invited me to his home. His whole house was just a 4x4 m corrugated iron hut. Apart from a bed and a few instruments, there was no room for anything else. He didn't even have running water. But he was so happy that I wondered how you can be happier than me, even though I'm the one on vacation.
Return Journey
Farewell words
That was an unforgettable journey through West Africa. I collected so many new impressions, met people, and had experiences that left a lasting impression on me. The openness and warmth of the people, the diversity of cultures, and the impressive landscapes showed me how enriching it is to discover the world with open eyes. I can only recommend everyone to embark on the adventure and leave your comfort zone – it's worth it!
So, that's it from me. I hope you enjoyed the report, feel free to leave some comments, I'd be happy. Bye for now and see you next time.